The porcini-crusted ahi was seared to perfection and artfully arranged with shaved asparagus spears and little potato balls, and then drizzled in a cherry and cabernet reduction.
Next, the server brought out boat-shaped bowls with panna cotta set in the center with pickled strawberries, olive oil and micro greens. He then poured strawberry gazpacho around the Italian, cooked-cream dessert in slow swirls; and the aroma as well as the presentation bowled me over.
Of course, I knew it would, because it was prepared by 5 Palm’s new corporate chef, George Gomes Jr.
I first met Gomes in the ’90s, when he was executive chef at the acclaimed A Pacific Cafe in Kihei with Hawaii Regional Cuisine superstar Jean Marie Josselin.
Over the years, he’s gotten recognition as head chef at many other top establishments, such as Tri-Star Restaurant Group on Maui; and most recently, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel and Courtyard Marriott on the Big Island of Hawaii.
“It’s really good to return, to be back on Maui,” Gomes said with an ear-to-ear grin as he looked out from his perch at Keawakapu Beach in the Mana Kai Resort.
“5 Palms is always busy, too. It starts at breakfast and keeps on going through lunch, happy hour, dinner and late night. And, the views, you just gotta love the beach action and the sunsets.”
In fact, 5 Palms is the current winner of “Best Ambience” in the recent Best of Maui contest in The Maui News.
Combined with its oceanfront lawn and stellar views of neighbor islands, it’s always been a hugely popular location for weddings and holiday parties.
Now with Gomes’ presence, the food will take it over the top.
“We do well, but we’ll do better,” says Gomes. “Owner Simon Vojdani has been around the block. He’s owned like 91 top restaurants here and on the Mainland. He’s experienced and passionate and he strives for the best.”
Gomes continues that his goal right now is to assess what the restaurant offers and to run specials as he gives dishes a new flair, his own of course.
“We do what I call ‘Coastal Maui Cuisine,” he says. “We still use lots of local products and our food is bold. But it will be bolder, fresher.”
Take for instance, the charred-beef tataki he cooked for our table with baby spinach, green-peppercorn glaze, gorgonzola cheese and shiitake bacon. It combined the classic steak sauce with trendy “bacon” made from fresh mushrooms. Wow!
“The kitchen is at the heart of it all,” he says. “The heart needs to pump properly and do so at a steady pace. Getting the right team is important. We need to make sure that everyone is on the same page for the best food and the best service.”
Right now, it’s hard to beat 5 Palms’ two happy hours daily with some of the freshest sushi around. The hamachi was glistening and fresh from the water.
It’s a fun atmosphere, for sure. General Manager Moki Chong Kee is always around to keep it that way. “We’re happy about our successful happy hour,”he says. “And we’re very excited to have Chef George Gomes Jr. Fortunate, indeed.”
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